Tissamaharama —-> Haputale – July 31
Breakfast is horrible. The manager promises to take me to the bus terminal but, before leaving, starts an interminable conversation.
The connection between Tissamaharama and Haputale is long, but nothing exceptional, just a little boring : two changes, quite fast. I leave Tissa at 10.00, and arrive at my destination in the early afternoon. This is the itinerary and the costs.
Tissa – Thanamalwhila 51 LKR, Thana – Wellawaya 67 LKR, Wellawaya – Haputale 93 LKR.
Haputale is a small village, and, if one wants to remain downtown, can look for a hotel simply walking. I ask directions to the Sri Lak Holiday (2500 LKR) which has been recommended by two friends of mine
Most guesthouse, anyway, are far away, on the road leading to the monastery of Adisham (Temple Road). Next to the station, the Royal Top Rest Inn has terrific views, and lower prices than the Sri Lak.
The village lies on a ridge, surrounded by greenery and breathtaking views
There are no tourist shops, only street vendors, and some local restaurant, among which stands the colorful two-story building of Risara Bakery and Pastry Shop, run by Muslims
The old gentleman who prepares the tea, at the base of the stairs, is immeasurably kind and smiling. I stutter with him a few words in Arabic, the only ones that I know. A bit early for Italians standards, at 18.00, I come here for dinner. After all, what I ate on the bus for lunch was just a snack. I climb upstairs where the dishes of the day are exposed in showcases, and young hopefuls masterchefs are busy cutting vegetables with speed and accuracy. Excellent dinner, 250 LKR. I stop to talk with a couple of New Zealanders.
HAPUTALE – August 1st
One of the most beautiful days of the holiday. I wake up early. I drink a cup of tea at ECB Hotel, 10 LKR, on the main road. At 6.00, while it is getting clear, I look for the minibus to the Dambatenne factory, on the rear clearing of Risara Bakery. A stray dog, a kind of greyhound, befriends me. She arches her eyebrows and seems smiling. She pats my thigh with her nose, I give her half of my breakfast. Another friend of her comes, a kind of shibu, a little cross-eyed, very nice too. Other human beings arrive, they are all directed to the tea factory. We wait for about 20 minutes. When it is clear that, for some reason, the minibus will not come, a tuk tuk takes us all. We are in 4 adults, and along the way it will pick up at least a couple of children. We all pay 50 LKR each. The bus would have costed 38 LKR. Once in Dambatenne, the tuk tuk guy asks me 300 LKR to climb up to Lipton’s Seat, but the weather is beautiful, and I love to walk in this landscape. Next to the factory there is a large village, and children in uniform swarming erywhere. The road is full of curves, every corner open picturesque views, hills covered with tea plants, the sun begins to peep and is reflected on the bright leaves.
I think I have covered about 5 km, when I arrive at the top (admission 50 LKR). the sun is already hot. The Rough Guide recommended to visit Lipton’s Seat before 9.00, before fog rises from the plains
I look from the viewpoint, and it’s really true! Large tufts as cotton wool are rising slowly, obscuring the view
I meet two French ladies, they ask me if I want a lift up to the tea factory, which they are planning to visit. I accept, since it’s my same intention.
Coming down we meet the workers in the fields, earning 4.5 USD per day, and collecting at least 18 kgs of leaves.
We get to Dambatenne factory, former Lipton. The visit is quite hasty (entrance fee 250 LKR), but in any case instructive because I had never seen anything like that. We are shown the various stages of processing. I get the confirmation that the thin powder contained in the tea bags commonly sold in the supermarket is the processing waste, in spite of what they say in the advertising
Before descending the valley, the driver, who is from Haputale, suddendly stops next to a kindergarten. The teachers give us permission to enter, and the children come to meet us and look at us as if we were Martians. They are adorable. The most curious thing I notice are the kind of “bundles”, composed of sheets tied to a tightrope, which contain smaller kids, who are asleep, cocooned in the interior, or curiously lean out their head
Said hello to the two women, I go to the tiny station to see if I can prebook a ticket to Ella, but they explain it’s not possible, and the only way is to buy it about 50 minutes before the arrival of train
I will read then in the guidebook that only the larger stations have a prebooking system that allows the seats reservation, upon payment of a substantial surtax. In cases of night journeys, in my opinion, it’s worth to prebook, but just for one or two hours then it is not a problem if I can’t sit. On the same street, I stop at an internet cafe, 30 LKR per 30 minutes navigation. At lunch Risara Bakery prepares an excellent rice and curry, (160 LKR) perhaps one of the best even eaten. I buy some sweets (86 LKR) and then mangoes at the market. I head to Thikala Ayurvedic Centre, where I have a facial massage (2000 LKR) that leaves my skin as smooth as silk. I have dinner at my hotel. Guests are virtually all eating in the restaurant, I have never seen any of them trying some food in the places where the local people go. The meal is not bad, I must say.